16 November 2007

La vie en France: les grèves

Last Tuesday, November 13, the students at the Université Paul-Valery, Montpellier III voted to officially go on strike in response to some reforms Président Sarkozy is making to the French university system. They held some general assemblies and then barricaded off the entrance gates and all of the building entrances with piles of tables and chairs. They then guard the entrances to ensure that no one gets on campus or into their classrooms. In response to this, as is traditional in strike situations, the president of the university cancelled all classes for a week to ensure that no one got hurt trying to get to class and to make sure that no property was damaged (aside from all the graffiti all over the place inspiring everyone in their strike efforts).

Usually, even when the University goes on strike (which happens about once every two years. If you've never gone on strike for something, you're not actually French. My friend's hostmom said when she was a kid her middle school went on strike. That's right, a bunch of 11-year-olds.), the IEFE, the international student program, still goes on as normal, because we're not actually involved in any of the politics of the strike. But the president decided to go ahead and shut us down too, for security reasons, I believe. Which would mean no class for a week.

So we had no class on Wednesday, which didn't affect me anyway, because I never have class on Wednesdays. But I got an email from one of my teachers saying that the situation had changed somewhat, and they were restarting up classes for us international students. Somewhat disappointed that we didn't get a week-long vacation like the regular French students, we went back to class on Thursday.

Friday morning (at 8.30 in the morning, no less), we got to campus to find out the police had barred it off and weren't letting anyone in. Apparently about 20 students were occupying campus and the president decided enough was enough, so he had the police come in to get them off campus, which is a big deal to everyone on strike, because it's like the police have now invaded their sacred ground. The police have evacuated the 20 students and shut down campus to try and avoid any backlash from other students. They don't want a riot. Normally I guess they just let the students have campus indefinitely (a few years ago they went on strike for most of the semester), but this time they decided they want to try and keep the students from taking over campus again. I'm not sure if this means whether they've dismantled all the barricades or not.

About 20 minutes later the directrice of my program called to make sure that we were okay and not stuck in the middle of anything on campus. She said now we're not sure what's going on with class. Some students may rebel against the police being on campus and things could get pretty serious, so the president may just decide to keep everyone off campus, or they could have us start classes back up this afternoon. We're not really sure what's going to happen. Hopefully not a riot though.


I figure I'll just stay away from campus and see what happens. Apparently these things occasionally get pretty ugly. This strike isn't supposed to last that long, and I don't think the movement is that strong, but the president of the university is taking a pretty strong stance, and Sarkozy has said he's not giving in about his reforms, so we'll just see.

The trains are also on strike, because of retirement reform, which means instead of it's thousands of daily trains, France has only hundreds. This Tuesday all of the civil servants are going to go on strike, which will affect trains, trams, buses, and any other government job, such as public pools, libraries, the post office, etc. Pretty much everything will be shut down. And a bunch of the pre-school teachers are going on strike next Tuesday, too. It's getting kind of crazy over here. Everyone is striking. Maybe I should find something to strike about. Maybe I'll go on strike over the strikes. ;)

07 November 2007

Toussaints: Berlin, Hamburg, Paris, Normandy

November 1, All Saint's Day, is a national holiday in France (but they don't celebrate Halloween), and my professor canceled class for that Friday, so my friend Heather and I left Tuesday night, Oct 30, for Berlin, then went to Hamburg, Paris, and Normandy, then got back Monday morning.

I loved Germany! Berlin is a beautiful city, and I love how full of history it is. We visited the largest section of remnants of the Berlin Wall, which they've turned into an art gallery by having a bunch of people paint things along it. Contrary to popular opinion, the Wall is actually two walls, one on the East side and one on the West, separated by a few hundred yards of empty space. Most of the Wall was destroyed, but they've marked in cobblestone where it used to be all around the city. Since the area in between the walls also started growing things and got somewhat overgrown right after Wall fell, the city is also endeavoring to turn all of that space into green space, with walking and biking paths and gardens, etc, all across the city. It's actually pretty cool.

Berlin is a gorgeous city, very clean. I liked it a lot. Heather and I did a lot of walking around, not really looking for anything specific. We went to the IMAX theater and saw the movie Trade (in English). I thought it was very well done. It's about sex trafficking in the United States. Definitely a very intense movie, and one I wouldn't take your children to see, but it brings up some of the hidden crimes in the States, the ones no one hears about but that are becoming more and more common.

We also went to the Berlin zoo, where I got to see lots of fun animals. It was very exciting.

Next we went to Hamburg, where we once again didn't really do much except walk around and look at it be pretty. We wanted our trip to be kind of leisurely and relaxing, not running from monument to monument or anything like that, so that's what we did.

Then we went to Paris, where we went to see a ballet at the Opéra Garnier. It was actualy two 40-minute ballets, both of them modern, and the first one was pretty good, but the second one was really cool. I love watching people dance. Ballet is easily my favorite form. It's so gorgeous, I nearly start drooling whenever I see a good ballet dancer. I was really glad I got to go see one in Paris. The Opéra Garnier is a gorgeous old opera house too. It looks like something out of a movie. We were in these little six-person boxes, all done up in red velvet and gilded everything. We had good seats too. It was awesome.

We then went to Normandy for a day and toured Pointe du Hoc, Omaha beach, the American museum, and the German and American cemeteries. It was really neat. Pointe du Hoc is still filled with craters from all the bombs and everything, and you can see the nearly-sheer cliffs the Rangers had to climb to get to the German cannons in an attempt to incapacitate them. Omaha beach is huge, five miles long, and at low tide you can still see where the Americans built an artificial port in the days right after D-day.

The cemeteries were crazy. The American one is the largest land-wise, with 9,000 graves, and it's very impressive. The German one actually affected me more though. It takes up less land, but it's got 21,000 people buried in it, two people for each cross, and being there was very sobering. At least in the American cemetery, you know that each of those people died fighting for freedom, fighting to defend all the people that were unable to defend themselves and were being brutally slaughtered. In the German cemetery, all I could think was that these thousands upon thousands of people died for nothing, fought for nothing. For some maybe it was voluntary, for some maybe they were brainwashed, but when it comes down to it, what were they fighting for? Political power for their homeland? The right to do whatever they wanted, even if it mean slaughtering millions of people they deemed "unworthy"? To prove the superiority of their own race over all others? It's all just vanity, and it took over an entire country. It's astounding, and it's so sad to think of the millions of people that were killed by it, both in the concentration camps and during the war, Allies and Germans.

Overall, the trip went really well, and we were glad we got to go. We loved Germany and northern France was gorgeous, even though it was starting to get kind of cold. It's our last big trip, so we're glad it was a good one!

17 October 2007

London

This past weekend a group of us went to London for Saturday and Sunday. It was a lot of fun! We flew there Saturday morning, then checked in and ate lunch at our hostel/pub. I had to register for classes for next semester at 3.15 London time, so I found an internet cafe and got that out of the way. Then we just kind of wandered a while, figured out the Tube, went by Buckingham Palace, etc, then Caitlin and I had to head back to the hostel to get ready to go see LES MISERABLES that night. I was so excited!

Les Mis was awesome! I've read the book (multiple times) and know the music inside out, so it was great to finally see the play as it was meant to be seen. I tried not to cry too much. It was soooo good. Unfortunately, because of Les Mis, I had to miss the France-England rugby game (semi-finals of the World Cup, which is being hosted in France, and even partly in Montpellier). At intermission people were checking the score and France was winning, but when we got out of Les Mis we learned that we'd ended up losing, which was sad. Oh well.

Sunday we just wandered around and were tourists. Saw all the exciting things in London. We actually had good weather: partly cloudy, no rain, didn't even really need a jacket except late at night. Walking around and sightseeing is fun.

Monday morning we got up at 2am, caught a cab at 2.45, caught a bus at 3.30, got to the airport at 5, caught our plane at 6, and got back to France at 9. I had been planning on going to my classes that day, but by the time my hostdad picked us up at the airport at 9.30, we were all exhuasted and I just went home and slept til 6 that night. Also, my hostdad taught me the French phrase for cutting class. We had crepes for dinner. It was yummy.

Yay England!

Life

Well, apparently I'm really bad at this.

My life since Italy:

Been taking classes at UPV. Mondays I have class from 8.30 to 4.30, Tuesday from 8.30 to 3.30, no class on Wednesdays, Thursdays, 1.00 to 4.00, and Fridays from 9 to 10.30. Overall not too bad, though the 11.5 hours of class on Mondays and Tuesdays wipes me out. But fortunately I have Wednesdays to recover.

Classes are fine. They vary between grammar, oral comprehension, oral expression, written comprehension, and written expression. And I also have a lit class and a civ class. Overall pretty easy. I have virtually no reading and not much homework besides that, so I have a lot less work than I usually do at UNC. Kind of nice to have a semester off from that stress.

Yes, everything is in French.

The French really do say "Oh la la" all the time. And the number of "la"'s is variable. The most I've heard at once was like 14, from my hostmom. I don't remember what she was oh la la -ing at, but it must have been pretty intense.

My life mostly consists of going to class every day, eating dinner at night with my hostparents, and either going out with friends at night (to a movie, dancing, etc) or going to the internet cafe to see if anyone's online. Lather, rinse, repeat.

I can tell my French is improving, even though I know I won't be fluent when I leave. It's still nice to be able to speak much more easily and to understand a lot more easily. I do like speaking in French, and it's fun to know that I can live in a different language if I ever need/want to.

My friend Taylar and I found a church we like! It's a "Evangelist Protest Reformed" Church. I'm not really sure what that means over here, but we like the church. It's about 30-40 people, and Sunday we actually sang "He's got the whole world in His hands" in French during the service. It was awesome. We're going to go back this Sunday. :) I was happy to have finally found a church we can stick with.

19 September 2007

Italy, part one

We took the 15h11 train from Montpellier to Nice, from whence we were supposed to take the night train, which left at 21h07, to Florence. About 45 minutes after we left Montpellier, our train broke down in this little middle-of-nowhere train station in Arles. For two hours. We took turns leaving someone with our stuff and taking walks outside, all the while trying to think where we were going to sleep that night since we were going to miss the train to Florence. Once the train finally got going again around 18h10, the conductor came over the loudspeaker and said the night trains to Rome and Venice were going to wait for us. That was fantastic for us, since we were going to Florence, but we were confused since according to the train schedule there was no train to Rome. We wallowed in our confusion for the remaining hours of the train ride, got to Nice around 22h00, and lo and behold, there was the train to Rome and Venice, but alas no train to Florence. We started dejectedly wandering off, now trying to think of where we were going to sleep and how we were going to get to Florence the next day. As one last resort we checked our train number and realized that, though it didn't say Florence anywhere in the terminal or on the train, the train to Rome and Venice was indeed the our train. By this time the conductor was blowing his whistle to signal the departure of the train; everyone had already boarded. We frantically ran up to him, blabbering in French about how this was our train and we needed to get on it. We ran to the nearest door (which was fortunately the car next to ours) and jumped on board as the train started pulling away. Some nice man who was laready on held the door (which was trying to close) open for us so we could climb on as fast as possible. I wsa pretty sure at least one of us was going to get left behind. We made it to our room. At this point it's like 22h30, none of us have eaten since lunch, and there's no food car on the train, so we split a bottle of wine for dinner, then went to bed.

But we made it to Florence! Florence is gorgeous and I could have spent our entire week there. We saw some amazing churches and cathedrals, including the one that had the preserved body of one of the archbishops of Florence from the 1400s on display. The priest in there was the cutest little old man ever and spoke to us for a few minutes in simple Italian (most of which we were able to get the gist of from French) and some broken English. If I lived in Florence, that's the church I would attend: I loved it.

While we were there we also saw Michelangelo's David, which was magnificent, and the graves of Michelangelo, Galileo, machiavelli, and Danti, who are all inhumed in the same churched. We walked around Florence a lot and just marveled at how gorgeous it is. We alos found a Mexican restaurant! We were nearly beside ourselves with excitement. France doesn't have any Mexican, and we all sorely missed it. So probably the most exciting thing in Florence was eating Mexican. Go figure.

Updates coming soon on Rome and Venice!

08 September 2007

I have bruises to prove it

Today we went on our last planned excursion, this one to St-Guilhem-le-Désert. It's this little tiny town all by its lonesome in a mountain valley about an hour from here. It was really really pretty. And what was even more exciting was that we got to go swimming in the Hérault river, which was utterly gorgeous. It was really really clear, and the perfect temperature. Cold when you first got in, but just right after that. Also, the river, since it is in a mountain valley, it's surrounded by cliffs, which makes it perfect for cliff-jumping! So I jumped off a few cliffs. The highest was about 15-20 feet in the air I think. It was a ton of fun, though I did bruise my leg hitting the water. But it was a small price to pay! It felt so good to be in the water, and just to be active. Some friends and I are thinking about getting a membership to the pool and going there once or twice a week, since that will give us something active to do all semester. And my mom just sent me my dance shoes to I can do that as well, so hopefully I'll be able to be pretty active while I'm here. I'm looking forward to that. Yay France!

Also, tomorrow I leave for Italy!

07 September 2007

Patriotism

Today on the tram a few of us were talking about patriotism, and we ended up talking about some stuff I hadn't really thought about before. I had mentioned that despite the common perception that American is extremely nationalistic, most Americans really aren't that patriotic. They are, but when I went to Turkey I saw so much more nationalism there than I ever would in the US, so it made me think about how patriotic the average American is, which doesn't seem to be all that much. But then today I was talking to my program director over here and she was talking about how when she went back to visit the States this summer (she's been living in France 15 years), she was surprised at how patriotic they were. She explained that in France you don't see people flying the French flag or playing patriotic songs (such as Proud to be an American in America) all the time or anything like that, that it would be really weird to see that.

So I've come up with a theory on part of why that is, because I like to think about such things. I don't think France is any less patriotic than America is, and perhaps even America isn't any less patriotic than Turkey. I think they just show it different ways. In Europe, you're in very close quarters with a bunch of different countries, so flagrant shows of patriotism or national pride can be viewed as offensive or even aggressive by neighboring countries, whereas in America there's not really anyone close by to challenge us. Thus the French show their patriotism through preserving their culture: they have tons of laws about language and music and all parts of culture, in order to try and keep it as unaffected by foreign cultures as possible.

Here in Europe, your culture is mostly challenged with being swallowed up by the surrounding ones, so it's a fight to keep it alive. In America, we don't have that challenge, so we're free to be flagrant with our flags and our songs, etc. American culture is based on a mix of cultures, essentially built on the flexibility and constant change that comes from having a mélange of people-groups. So change is considered normal, and it's not necessarily your specific accent or mannerism that's as important as showing to others that regardless of your background, you are American. Here you don't need to show anyone you're French; it's through the preservation of the culture through the correctness of your speech, your French mannerisms, etc, that shows your loyalty to your country. It's an interesting discrepancy. Any thoughts?

04 September 2007

One week til Italy!

Well, I have one more week of grammar and civ classes, then I have a week off before I start university classes. My friends Sarah and Caitlin and I are going to to leave Sunday morning for Nice, spend the day there, then take the night train to Florence. From there we'll go to Rome, then Venice, then back to Nice, then back home to Montpellier. We'll get back next Sunday afternoon, so it will have been almost exactly a week. We're pretty excited about it.

Aside from that, classes are going well. We have an official wine tasting during our civ class on Wednesday, then our finals for our grammar classes on Saturday before our last excursion. After that we are free from Pré-stage, something we're all pretty excited about. When I get my classes for this semester, I really want to see if I can keep my Fridays free for traveling purposes. This is my list of places I want to visit, in no particular order:

Normandie
London/England
Paris
Barcelona
Dublin
Germany
Austria

I know there are some I'm missing. Any good ideas? I know I probably won't get to go everywhere I want to, but I need to have a full list before I can figure out which ones to prioritize.

Life is going pretty well; I love France, but I wish I could share it with all my friends back home! Email is my main mode of communication, since I have limited internet, so I'd love it if you shoot me an email and I'm trying to get back to people within two to three days.

I miss you guys!

01 September 2007

Some recent adventures

Things are going well here! Two weeks of classes are over. This weekend we're going to Avignon. After this next week, I have a week break, so some friends and I are going to travel Italy a little bit. It's gonna be fun times!

Some recent adventures we’ve had:


Dimanche, le 26 août, 2007

All of the American students (there’s about 100 of us) here in Montpellier had a scheduled excursion to Carcassonne, which is about a two-hour bus ride away. It was all done through the IEFE, the Institute for Exchange Students. Apparently, the other bus was cold, but I don’t know if our air just wasn’t working right or if our bus driver didn’t want to turn the air on very high, but it was hot on that bus. But it wasn’t completely unmanageable, I managed not to get sick, and after two hours we were in Carcassonne, which is a medieval French city that has been restored to it’s 13th century self. It was daggone hot outside. We walked around the castle, then had about a two-hour break for lunch, during which I got to see the church there (it’s gorgeous! And it has one of the oldest organs in Europe). Then we all were so privileged to be able to go so a reenactment of 13th century European jousting. We were sitting on metal bleachers in full sun for about an hour and a half. We were sweating galore, and I definitely got sunburned. The jousting finally finished, and hot and tired, we went back to the buses to start the drive home. Our bus driver wouldn’t start the bus before we were actually leaving, so we all stood outside, where at least there was a little bit of breeze, and sweated til we left. It was still really hot on the bus but someone had opened the ceiling window vent things, so there was air coming through and it was alright.

After about an hour, the bus pulled over, and the bus driver got off. We in the back had no idea what was going on, and since the bus had been turned off and now there was no air moving, it started getting hotter and hotter in the back. After about ten minutes, it was no exaggeration at least 100 degrees and we decided that whether or not we were allowed to, we were getting off. As it turns out, the bus had an oil leak, so from then on we would have to stop every 6 kilometers to refill the oil tank. The bus driver was able to call another bus to come meet us, but it was going to be about 50 minutes before he could get there, and we would have to drive a little ways to meet him. When you got back on the bus, you could feel yourself walk into a wall of heat. We sat on the 100 degree bus for about 15 minutes as we drove to meet the other bus, and even in that short a period of time, there were several people on the bus about to get sick. We finally reached the spot, which fortunately had a gas station so that we could get ice cream, and then we stood outside in the sun, which was still cooler than in the bus, and waited for another bus for like 45 minutes. After that bus arrived, we still had about a 45 minute ride back to town, from where I would need to walk about 10 minutes and then take a tram for another 30 minutes to get home. I was so exhausted by the time got home that I went to bed at like 9.30.

Mardi, le 28 août, 2007

Two days later, the IEFE had arranged for everyone to go to the beach. One bus was leaving at 2, then another would come back for anyone who wanted to go at the 3. Most of the UNC kids signed up for the 3oclock bus, along with five or six Minnesota kids. For all of the IEFE excursions so far, the buses had picked up the Minnesota kids in front of the dorms they were staying in and then swung by the front gate of the school to pick up us UNC kids, which is a little easier for us, since the university is like 30 minutes from most of our homes. So we met at the gate, all of us before 3, and waited for the bus. And waited for the bus. After about half an hour our graduate assistant was making jokes about how everything runs late in the south of France. After almost an hour, she decided to call one of the assistants, who was already at the beach, to see what was going on. So she called and found out that the 3oclock bus had come and gone, and that what had happened was that it stopped at the dorms and then another assistant who was on the bus, despite the fact that like 20 people had signed up for that bus and only like 5 were there, said that they weren’t going to make a second stop and that they were just going. So they left us there. I’ll be honest, we were pretty livid. At first we were just going to play in the fountains in another part of the city, but then they called back and said the bus was going to come back for us, and that we should be able to leave for the beach by about 4.30, though we’d still have to come back at 6 like had been scheduled. It’s about a half an hour to the beach, so we ended up getting there around 5 and leaving at 6. So we did get to go, but it was an ordeal. And I don’t even like the beach!

We’ve decided we like France, but not the buses!

24 August 2007

Voila!

Voila! Here I am, in France! When I first arrived my groupe traveled to Sommieres for a short orientationm then a week ago we retourned to Montpellier and moved in with our host families. I love my hostparents! They're so sweet. It's an older couple, orthodox Christian, and they have been so nice to me, helping me with my French, etc. We have these in-depth conversations about religion and life at the dinner table every night; it's pretty cool.

This has been our first week of classes in what's called the préstage, which is like three weeks of language and civ classes before we start at the university in September. Those are pretty straigh-forward and not overly difficult , which is nice, but it means I don't have much free time right now.

Our group of UNC students is fun. We what 14 girls and 1 lone guy, and a few of us get together to do something most evenings. In August, Montpellier has wine tastings every Friday, so a group of us went to that last week. I've discovered that I don't like wine; I want to acquire the taste before I leave but at the moment I can't drink more than a few sips of it. Even here in France where it's legal for me to drink and people don't drink to get drunk like they do in the US, I still have zero desire to drink, and I haven't yet decided if I'm going to go out with some of the other girls and try a drink or not sometime. Any thoughts?

So far I love it here, but I do miss people, and I miss being on campus. I think the hardest part of that is feeling somewhat left behind by your friends because you're not with them doing the things they're doing, something that's exacerbated by the 6-hour time difference that makes it hard to talk to people at all. But this is a beautiful city that I'm quickly falling in love with, and I can tell already that I'm going to be really sad when I have to leave.